Paris: Cherry Blood

Car l’heure de la chute est l’heure de l’orgueil; Because the hour of downfall is the hour of pride, Victor Hugo wrote in the May section of his poem “The Terrible Year.”

The terrible year was 1871. Spring wasn’t marked by the sweet scents of cherry flowers that May, or by lovers strolling along the Seine, but by the bloody and violent smashing of the Paris Commune. In an unparalleled massacre, the French army gunned down thousands of ordinary citizens, men, women, and children alike, flooding the cobblestoned streets of Paris with the blood of the Communards, or of anyone suspected to be a sympathizer. French President Thiers, safe in distant Versailles, had given his soldiers carte blanche for on-the-spot executions – and they performed them with remarkable brutality and hatred. The so-called Semaine Sanglante, the bloody week of May 21-28 1871, cost the lives of more than 20,000 Parisians, and remains a grim example of state terror and popular resistance: of how far a government would go to protect itself against its own citizens, and to what cruelties the dehumanisation of the opponent can lead.

A Street in Paris in May, 1871 by Neo-Impressionist Maximilien Luce; Musee d’Orsay

The Paris Commune lasted for only 72 days, but its spirit still resonates: as a first socialist uprising, as the realization of a social utopia, as a state run by workers in their own interest. Although its many laws were quickly revoked, the commune kept inspiring the political left in Europe and beyond. Engels called it the first dictatorship of the proletariat, Marx wrote: ‘Its martyrs are enshrined in the great heart of the working class.” To a modern ear, however, the commune’s decrees don’t sound radical at all: Municipal democracy; obligatory schooling for all children; the separation of state and church; equal rights for illegitimate children; women’s right to divorce. Some demands remain pressing today, like the dedication of vacant buildings to homeless people, or access to art for all.

At age 70, Victor Hugo eyed the Commune with sympathy, yet caution. To the elderly politician and social activist, the communards appeared too radical, too heedless, too militant. They were indeed a motley crew of revolutionaries that mostly met in coffee shops, socialists and anarchists, among them many artists and writers. Their economic and political views were widespread, but what united them was a profound distrust of the church, and a passion to end the hair-raising economic injustice and social inequality of the Belle Epoque. 

Montmartre as seen from the Musee d’Orsay. Neither the museum nor the cathedral on top of the Montmartre hill were around at the time of the Commune. The Cathedral was built in spite of the Communards’ Anti-catholicism, because the neighbourhood was a Communard stronghold. The museum was established to unite the painters of the 19th century, those who opposed and those who supported the Commune.

The 19th century was a turbulent time for France, marked by many political upheavals. The last revolution, the one of 1848, had ended with Charles Louis Napoleon Bonaparte, a nephew of Napoleon Le Grand, as the first elected President of France. Backed by small group of wealthy supporters, he had quickly established himself as an authoritarian ruler, and in 1852 declared himself emperor Napoleon III of the second Empire. 

The second Empire had brought wealth to the city and seen the rise of the bourgeoisie. Technological progress had turned Paris into a centre of industry, finance, commerce, fashion, science, and the arts. Factories sprouted in the city’s East and attracted thousands of workers from the surrounding countryside. The city grew not only in size to its present boundaries, but also in population, doubling to two million within a few decades. 

Napoleon had two railway stations built, and many public parks; a new Opera House for this wife, the Opera Garnier which however would remain unfinished until after the Commune, and a flashy glass palace as a new central market – Les Halles. He gave the Royal Gardens (the Tuilleries) and Royal Palaces an overhaul to make them glitter and sparkle like in their heydays. Numerous museums attracted tourists, as did the absinthe-serving cafés, the établissements, and the courtesans: the alluring demimonde of male phantasies come true. 

The courtesan Apollonie Sabatierat in full frontal display at Musee d’Orsay

Il est grave : il est maire et père de famille.  

Son faux col engloutit son oreille. Ses yeux  

Dans un rêve sans fin flottent insoucieux,  

Et le printemps en fleur sur ses pantoufles brille.  

Que lui fait l’astre d’or, que lui fait la charmille  

Où l’oiseau chante à l’ombre, et que lui font les cieux /  

Et les prés verts et les gazons silencieux ?  

Monsieur Prudhomme songe à marier sa fille.   

He is serious. He is a mayor and family father 

his faux collar swallows his ear, his eyes 

in an endless dream wander without worries 

And the flowers of spring sparkle on his pantoffles. 

What is the Golden Star to him, what the hornbeam 

where the bird sings in the shade, and what the skies 

and the green meadows and the silent turf?

M Prudhomme dreams of marrying his daughter.

In Paul Verlaine’s satirical poem Monsieur Prudhomme of 1863, Paris is a pair of pantoffles. Spring has moved indoors. The wildflowers were tamed and domesticated, a deceitful embellishment on a container of a not so well-fragrant inner life. For if the bourgeois were comfortable in their chic apartments, they were also petty, catholic, and strictly hypocritical. 

Before he became the famous poet of his later years, Paul Verlaine, of privileged, catholic background himself, was a married clerk in the townhall. He wrote poetry only in his spare time as part of a lively literary scene in the Salons and cafés when the revolutionary movements were gathering momentum. During the Commune he became and Communard, joining the National Guard, and kept his post at the town hall as Head of the Press Bureau, though it is not clear what he actually did there. Only after the Commune’s downfall, would another revolutionary heart and an unbound love affair derail him from his brilliant career. 

Homosexuality was not illegal, but frowned upon.

The recent architectural changes had highlighted the division between the beaux quartiers in the affluent West of the city and the sordid, industrialized East. Although Napoleon had installed several social reforms that increased workers’ rights and made education accessible to girls, the fabulous splendour of Paris remained off-limits for most of the Parisians: The workers, crowding the hilly and densely populated quarters Montmartre in the North and Belleville in the East of the city, and Le Marais in the centre, scarcely made ends meet. Wages were low, and women got half the salary of their male counterparts. Although workers fueled the industrial revolution that brought riches to the rich, they themselves didn’t benefit from it. 

By 1870, half a million Parisians, a quarter of the population, were living in extreme poverty, and the narrow grey streets of central and Eastern Paris were still gloomy and excrement-ridden as in medieval times. Appalled by the squalor of the workers’ quarters, Hugo started writing Les Misérables. Despite the many revolutions, the conditions of the poor had always remained the same.

Belleville is coming down the hill‘ was a wide-spread fear in the beaux quartiers. The growing number of poor people worried many Parisians, as one could expect from devout Catholics. Ambling through the ménagerie of his Jardin des Fleurs maybe, admiring the elephants or the leopard, even Napoleon was appalled by the filthy conditions of the workers’ quarters. So he assigned Baron Haussmann to make Paris Great Again and have them bulldozed. 100,000 apartments and 20,000 buildings were destroyed for the creation of the palace-lined boulevards that still cut straight, starshaped lines into the city.  

Opéra Garnier

Hausmann’s ‘beautification’ of Paris was a costly undertaking financed through the augmentation of taxes on goods and custom barriers, (plus a little proxy-bond-scheme that would later fail and get Hausmann fired from his job). Of course, the ensuing increase on prices on daily goods on top of the housing shortage, further aggravated the living conditions of the working poor. But, so Napoleon had schemed, the new boulevards would prevent a popular uprising: by running through possibly insurgent quarters and hence hamper the organization of insurrection, and, should that fail, by making for an easy access route for imperial troupes. 

That Napoleon had sensed that a revolt was in the air had nothing to do with political or economic insight. He had been informed by his numerous police spies, the so called mouchoirs, that had infiltrated the intellectual and artistic circles of Paris. The 2nd Empire was in fact a police state. But ultimately, Napoleon knew, that what he really needed to gain public support, was a wide-spread sense of patriotism. In other words: a war. 

Luckily, the Prussians were at hand, and he swiftly declared war on Bismarck over a minor matter. Bismarck gladly accepted the offer. (He could use a war himself to solidify the new North German Empire.) But if Bismark, as history would prove, was an astute military strategist, the only talent Napoleon III had inherited from his famous uncle was an oversized sense of entitlement. As a military leader at least, he was not the brightest candle on the chandelier, or as the famous painter Gustave Courbet put it, he was ‘an idiot.’ 

“Monsieur Napoléon has declared a dynastic war for his own benefit and has made himself generalissimo of the armies, who is proceeding without a plan of campaign in his ridiculous and criminal pride.” Courbet wrote home to his family on the countryside.

The well-equipped and excellently trained Prussian army found an inferior opponent in the disorganized French army that lacked everything from maps to ammunition. Within weeks, the Prussians were in Paris, laying siege and starving the population. 

“We are passing through an indescribable crisis.  I do not know how we shall come out of it.”  Courbet wrote. A few months later, he was a leading Communard whose claim to fame was not only the opening of museums and theatres to the poor working class, but the destruction of the Column of Vendome – to him a symbol of imperial barbarity. To others, even among the sympathizers of the Commune, it was just an old piece of architecture. It was radical characters like Courbet that alienated moderate socialists and like-minded dissidents like Hugo. But at the time being, Hugo and Courbet were equally suffering from the Prussians’ siege of Paris. Hugo noted in his diary:

Oct 16: There is no more butter. There is no more cheese. Very little milk is left, and eggs are nearly all gone. 

Oct 22: We are eating horsemeat in every style. 

Nov 23: It has been raining for two or three days. For two days Paris has been living on salt meat. A rat costs 8 sous.

Nov 27: Pâtés of rat are being made. They are said to be very good. An onion costs a sou. A potato costs a sou. 

December 2: It is freezing. The basin of the Pigalle fountain is frozen over. The cannonade recommenced at daybreak. 

Jan 2 1871: The elephant at the Jardin des Plantes has been slaughtered. He wept. He will be eaten. 

With the French army destroyed, Napoleon didn’t know what else to do than distribute rifles to the civilian population. As Franc-tireurs, they were to take the defence of Paris into their hands. It was a surprising move from someone who had previously relied on spies to monitor his own citizens – and a crucial move for the Communards, who would never turn in their rifles. 

But while the People’s Paris, as the working class East was dubbed, held up against the Prussians, starving, dying in the bullet showers of the modern Prussian machine guns, Napoleon surrendered himself, then resigned, and swiftly fled the country. “Napoleon le Petit”, is what Hugo called him.

This was the end of the 2nd empire. Its successor, the third Republic, under the conservative President Thiers, would immediately surrender to the Prussians. The terms of the armistice were harsh – 5 billion francs – and most direly felt by the by the poor: Not surprisingly, the Parisians, who had fought so bravely against the Prussians, were not willing to accept the armistice, nor were they accepting the new government, especially since Thiers was rumoured to install a (Bourbon) monarchy in France again. “It is no longer an army you are facing. It is monarchy, it is despotism,” the revolutionary paper Le Rappel wrote. In defiance and in possession of rifles and cannons, the Commune of Paris constituted itself on March 18, 1871. The declaration read: Paris has no other government than that of the people and this is the best one. Paris is free.

Immediately after the Prussian army had withdrawn from Paris (yet remained close by), President Thiers tried to crack down on the Commune immediately, but failed: his soldiers had fraternized with the Parisians population instead. Thiers went as far as asking Bismarck for help in invading Paris, but the latter preferred to remain neutral. Hence Thiers withdrew to Versailles, where many of the wealthy Parisians who did not identify with the Commune followed him. Soon, Versailles was so crowded that accommodation was hard to find. 

In Paris, all the while, the Communards were busy forming a governing body and setting up an army, drafting all male Parisians between 19 and 40 into the National Guard. As it was a democratic grassroots movement, this went painfully slowly. The Communards were stuck in laborious decision-making: in panels and committees and delegations and other intricate forms of bureaucracy. Although a vast number of laws was quickly implemented, it was the lack of hierarchal structure that would later prove fatal. But for now, the Parisians were living their dream: Spring was in the air – it was the time of the cherries. 

Jardin du Luxembourg

People from the poor quarters strolled through the fancy neighbourhoods in the west, into which they had only set foot before had they been employed as domestic workers – or had they been displaced by Baron Hausmann, pushed to the peripheries. Now they reclaimed their space. And they did so with a lot of joie de vivre.

On Easter Sunday, the Jardin du Luxembourg was crowded with everybody and their neighbour. Ah! Citoyenne, Au, citoyen, Parisians from different social classes greeted each other. In the Tuilleries, where only weeks ago Napoleon and his wife had sauntered, a band played the Marsaillaise and other revolutionary songs. The Louvre and the Bibliotheque Nationale were open to all, and the cafés were crowded. Only Napoleon’s unfinished new Opera stood vacated. It had been turned into a storage facility for food. 

“Paris is a true paradise… all social groups have established themselves as federations and are masters of their own fate,” Courbet rejoiced. As a member of the Commission on Education and President of the Federation of Artistes, he was “…up to my neck in political affairs. I get up, I eat breakfast, I sit down and preside twelve hours a day. My head begins to feel like a cooked apple. But despite all this turmoil of the head and my understanding, which I’m not used to, I’m in an estate of enchantment.”

Maybe the most striking aspect of the Commune is how promptly the situation for women improved. Many women took pride in their role as citoyennes, and their demands were addressed in the meetings, and reflected in the laws. Not all communards thought favourable of equality among the sexes, though, but enough did. Most notable among the prominent citoyennes were Karl Marx’s daughter Jenny and his friend, the Russian activist Elisabeth Dmitrieff, writers Natalie Le Mel and André Leo, and, who was probably the most ardent and charismatic among the Communards Louise Michel.

“If equality between the two sexes were recognised, it would be a marvellous victory against human stupidity,” she wrote. “And so far as rebels go, there are quite a few of us now, simply taking our place in the struggle without asking for it.” 

Once the stronghold of the Commune, Belleville is still a synonym for counterculture.

Yet, the question of how to feed the poor remained pressing. The Communards received the modest sum of 700,000 francs as a loan from the bank of France. Not to take control of the bank of France, was, as Engels later pointed out, their main error and the ultimate reason for their downfall:

“The most difficult thing to understand is, indeed, the sacred respect with which the Commune reverently stopped before the portals of the Bank of France. This was also a portentous political error. The Bank in the hands of the Commune – that was worth more than ten thousand hostages. It would have meant the pressure of the entire French bourgeoisie on the Versailles government in the interests of peace with the Commune,” Engels wrote in 1891. 

He was right. The Communards had essentially enabled the Bank of France to finance its enemies. The bank of France gave Thiers 258 million Francs to reconstitute an army and on April 2 the Versaillais began the bombardment of the city. 

Thiers had not only relied on military weapons to prepare for his attack on the Commune. He had long enlisted the press and the church to whip up hate against the Communards within the population. Communards were depicted as dirty, lazy, immoral – as subhuman, a pest in a moral society, best exterminated. Their anti-clerical stance – let alone their eventual execution of the archbishop of Paris through the radical Communard leader Rigault – made the Communards especially suspect for the devout rural population from where the majority of Thiers’ soldiers stemmed. As did emancipated women who were regarded as a threat to public order, (or God’s divine order), especially women uniform or in pants: since 1800 the wearing of pants by women had been forbidden by a law. (This law was only overturned in 2013). 

That the commune was not (only) a political insurrection, but a counter-cultural one, is best expressed in the poetry of Arthur Rimbaud. A teenager in the rural and strictly catholic Charlesville, he dedicated many poems to the commune. 

The famous Portrait of Rimbaud as Graffiti.

Although he never joined the fight on the barricades, his poetry, unbound in its defiance of bourgeois standards and catholic values, and in its indulgence in life in its utmost physicality and emotionality, captured the spirit of the commune. The eternal teenager, the poet Arthur Rimbaud (Rimbaud famously abandoned poetry at the age of 20 and became a quite different, rather misanthropic adult) is still a kind of patron saint to the Belleville of today: Paris 20ieme arrondisement is now a multi-cultural hot spot of subculture, and the cradle of French punk. Les Rita Mitsouko gave their first concert at the Bataclan. ISIS chose the concert venue for their attack on the “Western way of life” in 2015. Once the stronghold of the Commune, Belleville is still a hotbed of insubordination and anti-religiosity, its name a synonyme for counterculture, a thorn in the side of any totalitarian regime.

He, hair pomadé, on a desk of mahogany,  

Read a bible with cabbage-green lithography.  

Each night in his alcove, he suffered through nightmares.  

He did not love God, but men, who in the fawn-coloured airs  

of dusk returned to their quarters, in blackened smocks;  

where town criers, with three drum rolls, made people flock; 

Je est un autre – I is another – surely is Rimbaud’s most popular quote, referring to the gap between the inner and the outer self. But in his solidarity and identification with the insurgent workers of Paris, whom he likened to women and suppressed people of the colonies, this could be understood as well as ‘I is the other”, anticipating the both the feminism of Simone de Beauvoir and the anti-colonialism of Frantz Fanon. 

“When the unending servitude of women is broken,” Rimbaud wrote, “when she lives by and for herself, when man – until now abominable – has given her her freedom, she too will be a poet.”

When the Versaillais troups at last attacked, it took them only a week to take Paris. This was not merely due to the fact that they outnumbered the Communards’ National Guard by far, and that they simply sidestepped the barricades by entering the buildings; and that they were helped by Parisians who did not sympathize with the Communards: The Commune’s lines of defence suffered primarily from a lack organization, discipline and military hierarchy. Communard officers were notoriously unorganized unreliable, as they were mostly drunk and/or still caught up in some panels and committees where they were more engaged in jealousies and rivalries than actual fighting.

Among the last ones fighting for the lost cause on the barricades, were not the Communard leaders, but ordinary men, boys, and above all women. Some fighting from sheer desperation, having lost their husbands, or others driven by rage and revenge, having lost their brothers, fathers, or sons. Many from conviction to never again lose their newly gained freedom as a woman and citoyenne. 

In his poem “The Hands of Jeanne-Marie, Rimbaud wrote: 

They are pale, they’re marvelous,

In the great sun of love and ambition 

On the bronze of the mitrailleuse

In the Paris of insurrection

These could have easily been the hands of Louise Michel, whom combat didn’t seem to frighten: not “the red teeth of the machine guns flashing on the horizon… It wasn’t bravery, I just thought it a beautiful sight. My eyes and my heart responded, as did my ears to the sound of the cannon. Oh, I’m a savage all right. I love the smell of gunpowder, grapeshot flying through the air, but, above all, I’m devoted to the Revolution.”

Louise Michel as Graffiti

The so called Petroleuses, a kind of early female suicide bombers, were rumoured to set Paris on fire whenever the Versaille troups had advanced, reducing half Paris to rubble and ash. Even though there is no evidence for this, their fame reached almost mythological dimensions, both as heroines and public enemy.

It is a matter of fact, however, that Communard women weren’t spared by the hatred by the Versailles soldiers, but received even harsher treatment: humiliation by exposing their breasts or naked bodies, and rape, both before or after getting shot.

In Belleville, where the final fighting took place, the blood shed was outrageous. The Versailles troupes had the Communards stand in double file against the walls, (as the wall of the Fédérés at Cemetery Père Lachèse commemorates) so executions would go fast and efficiently, as a single bullet could kill two – uniting two bodies like a pair of blood red cherries. 

Spring in Cemetery Père Lachaise.

The Communard Jean-Baptiste Clément had written the song “Les Temps des Cerises – the time of the cherries” in 1866 already as a simple love song, but in the midst of the massacres, he dedicated the song to the Commune as their blood dripped from the barricades like ripe cherries falling from the trees in May. 

Mais il est bien court, le temps des cerises, 

Où l’on s’en va deux cueillir en rêvant 

Des pendants d’oreilles. 

Cerises d’amour aux robes pareilles 

Tombant sous la feuille en gouttes de sang. 

But it is short, the time of the cherries 

When the two of us gathered them pretending they were earrings. 

Cherries of love in identical red robes 

Falling from the leaves in drops of blood 

To this day, it remains a hymn of freedom and justice of the political left in France. For the rest of France, it is still the anodyne love song of lovers with cherries on their ears.   

Delacroix’s Marianne at the Louvre

During the Semaine Sanglante Gustave Cobert had managed to go into hiding, then was imprisoned for six months, after which he went into exile. Paul Verlaine, too, survived the week in hiding. He met Arthur Rimbaud in summer 1871 only, and, in summer 1873, after a tumultuous love affair, shot at him. He was subsequently was imprisoned for attempted murder.

Louise Michel survived the carnage. Caught on the barricade, she demanded to be shot like the others, but, for fear of martyrization, she was taken prisoner and deported to the colonies in New Caledonia, where she promptly solidarized with the locals and organized an insurrection.   

The commune was only a short chapter in the history of France, but the blood shed was not in vain. France is a laic republic now, and the French are still notoriously revolutionary and prone to strikes and demonstrations. But quickly, the Parisians turned the page. The cafés filled again, and the theatres, the Louvre and even Opera Garnier was finally finished.  In 1800, after a general amnesty for all former communards, Louise Michel returned to Paris.  

   “We lived in the future, in the time when people would be more than beasts of burden whose work and blood other people made use of,” she said, looking back.  

Paris: The Poet and the Unicorn

Oh, this animal that is not
They didn’t know it, and anyway
-from its gait, its posture, its nape,
to its shining silent gaze – they loved it.

Although it wasn’t. But because they loved it, it was
a pure animal. They always left room
and in this room, clearly outlined
it softly lifted its head, and barely needed to

be. They fed it no grain
always only the possibility to be
and that gave such strength to the animal

that from its forehead it drove a horn. A horn.
To a virgin it appeared in white
and it was in her silver mirror, and in her.

During his stay in Paris, from 1902 till 1914, the Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke frequently took the short walk to the Musée de Cluny in the Quartier Latin. The ancient cloister turned museum had recently acquired a set of six medieval wall carpets: colourful tapestries, woven from dyed silk and wool, which depicted a noble woman and her lady in waiting flanked by a lion and a unicorn in a flowery garden.

Little was known of the tapestries’ provenance. Given their high quality, their manufacture, a highly collaborative effort by various professions, must have commanded an outrageous price. Much more than Michelangelo was paid to paint the Sistine Chapel, and of course, much more than Leonardo Da Vinci got for his Mona Lisa (then and now at display at the Louvre) which was, as is commonly known, nothing. Nevertheless, La Dame à la Licorne (the Lady with the Unicorn) was soon dubbed the medieval Mona Lisa, as she was as beautiful and as puzzling as Leonardo’s. Transcending the ages, her gaze too is elusive so enigmatic as if, as Rilke has it, she had in advance erased all the words that could have captured her.


There is indeed something transcendental about the tapestries. Like messengers of an eternal spring the thousand flowers of their millefleur pattern – hyacinths, asters, columbines, jasmines, violets and veronicas and many more – never wither. Together with the frolicking birds and the secretive little creatures like rabbits, sheep, and puppies, they instill a celestial ease into the gloomy museum halls, as if the old, cold cloister were an eternal garden of Eden: softening the electric light, muting the city sounds that seep in through the windows. In this silky, woolen silence, Rilke must have felt respite from the unbearable, feverish chaos of the big city. When he arrived, 1902, Rilke hated Paris. He wrote home:

I want to tell you, dear Lou, … that I’m gripped with horror of everything that, like in an unspeakable confusion, is called life, and how alone I am in between these people, how perpetually neglected by everything I encounter. Cars run through me. Those in a rush make no detour, but stomp full of contempt over me, like skipping over a puddle of old water.

The turn of the century had ushered in a new age: modernity, the age of motorization, industrialization, and Paris was the capital of this brave new world: a bustling, pulsating metropolis. The world’s third-biggest city was the centre of science and art. The Eiffel Tower, a symbol of progress and linearity, had only recently been erected and now pierced a sky smudged with the blackish exhausts of machines and factories. The click-clack of horse-drawn carts was replaced by the stinking roar of the stuttering new motor cars. The rues and avenues were crowded with passers-by, passing anonymously, merely transients among transients, abandoned and left to themselves in their own fates, in Rilke’s words. The brimming hospitals, the filthy back lanes, the poverty and misery of the city plagued the pale, blue-eyed poet.

Oh, a thousand hands have constructed my fears, and my fears have grown from a far-flung village into a city, a big city, where the unspeakable happens…” he wrote to Lou. “I arrived last August, in the time when the trees wither without autumn, and the lanes glow, splayed from the infinite heat and one walks through the odours like through many sad rooms.

Rilke had spent the previous years in the sandy solitude of the North Sea coast. Now, he was overwhelmed by a life that, though recklessly driven, seemed to have lost its momentum, like a carousel that, turning faster and faster, appears to stand still. Life, mechanical, technical, anonymous, devoid of its sensuality, has become sense-less. Life lost in superficiality has become death itself.


There is one way to read the “Lady with the Unicorn.” The five smaller tapestries depict the five senses: Taste. Smell. Touch. Sound. Vision. The sixth tapestry, the largest of the series, presents the sixth sense which crowns human existence. Mon Seul Désir, a heraldic banner above the Lady’s adorned head says. But what is this only desire, what this sixth sense? The Livre de Vraye Amour of 1503, a translation of Plato’s Symposion claims that the culmination of all five senses, the final and only object of human desire is beauty – the kind one cannot grasp with the senses: love.

“I’m learning to see,” says the protagonist of his only novel The Notebooks of Malte Laurids Brigge. Rilke wrote the book during his stay in Paris, no doubt to come to terms with the city, in his words, to make something of his fears. It is rather an anti-novel, written in the stream of consciousness technique ten years before Ulysses (James Joyce lived in Paris at the same time), and Mrs Dalloway (Virginia Woolf was an avid reader of Rilke). Malte Laurids Brigge, a young man newly arrived from Denmark, wanders through the streets of Paris, lonely and estranged. He, too, visits the Musée de Cluny and is smitten by the Lady with the Unicorn.

I am the impression yet to transform. Oh, it takes just a little to understand, to approve of it all. Only one step, and my misery would be bliss.

The Venus of Milo, on display at the Louvre since 1821, is the ideal of classic beauty – and one of the Louvre’s main attractions.

This is not purely an existentialist invitation to embrace the absurd – although Rilke anticipated much of the French existentialism that would bloom a few decades later in his old neighbourhood, the Quartier Latin. Learning to see meant to learn to take in: the German einsehen which means both to gain insight but also to understand, to empathize. In a way, Einsehen was his way of creating things of his fears, as he wrote to Lou. But it was also a technique that required him to become both the seer and the seen – Rilke and Brigge – at once. Looking at the headless torso of Apollo at the Louvre, Rilke writes:

…for here there is no place/that does not see you. You must change your life

However, blurring the lines between the outside and the inside came at a high cost for Rilke. Paris, the city that with its museums and art made him a poet, was also the backdrop of his existential crisis.

So then, this is where people come to live, I’d rather say, this is a place to die

This is the opening line of The Notebook of Malte Laurids Brigge. In the following pages Rilke gives a detailed account of Belle Epoque Paris, a term coined only decades later, no doubt in post-war nostalgia. To Rilke, the belle ville resembled a ship of fools: There is a man coming round the corner from the Champs Elysées carrying a crutch, there a woman pushing a barrel organ on a hand cart, there are the shop keepers in the rue the Seine, the man selling cauliflowers from a barrow of vegetables, there are the patients waiting at the psychiatric Hôpital de la Salpêtrière, the women feeding the birds, the man with St. Vitus Dance, the blind newspaper-seller. As Brigge observes the squalor and misery of the poor and sick, Rilke is terrorized that he might become one of them. He writes to Lou:

Oh Lou, I suffered, day after day. Because I understood that all these people, though I tried to evade them, couldn’t hide their secrets from me. They pulled me from myself into their lives, through all their lives, all their burdened lives.


Lou was not his wife, nor the mother of his little daughter. Lou was his amour fou, the acclaimed writer and psychoanalyst Lou Andreas-Salomé. Once, Rilke had burned with love for her.

There is another way to read the Lady with the Unicorn. It is hard to oversee the sexual connotation of the erect horn in the presence of a young, beautiful woman. Some historians argue that the Lady with the Unicorn was but no more than a celebration of sensuality, of sex.

The unicorn was commonly known to be a wild creature bestowed with the magic ability to heal sickness and render poisoned water potable. Pure and white, like a virgin, it was also savage and untamed, with a phallic cone growing from its head. In its ambivalence the unicorn unified good and bad, male and female. First described by the Greek Physician Ctesias as pale and blue-eyed with a white horn, it was later mentioned by Aristoteles, Pliny the Elder, and Julius Caesar. It featured prominently in the Bible as well as on altar pieces, where it stood as a symbol for Jesus Christ. Only the council of Trent, held in the middle of 16th century – after the tapestries supposed weaving – banished the unicorn from the Bible, which of course didn’t stop it from roaming freely in the rest of the world.

The banishing – the capture and killing – of the unicorn was common in Europe until the late 16th century. Because of its healing powers unicorn horn was traded at exorbitant prices. Shakespeare gives a detailed description of the unicorn hunt in Timon of Athens. Leonardo da Vinci explains in his notebooks, how alternatively, the unicorn could be lured by means of a virgin: The unicorn, through its intemperance and not knowing how to control itself, for the love it bears to fair maidens forgets its ferocity and wildness; and laying aside all fear it will go up to a seated damsel and go to sleep in her lap, and thus the hunters take it. In other contemporary accounts, the virgin then trapped the unicorn in a silver mirror.

Exhausted visitors at the Musée d’Orsay

When Lou Andreas-Salomé met Rilke, she was, although sixteen years his senior and married, a virgin. The intellectual feminist had until then tried to pursue a strictly rational, intellectual life. But Rilke seduced her with his poetry, – or, as the lore goes – with one specific love poem, as haunting and overwhelming today as it must have sounded to her:

Extinguish my eyes: I can see you
slam my ears shut: I can hear you
and without feet I can walk towards you
and without a mouth I still beseech you.
Break off my arms, I will hold you
with my heart as a hand
strangle my heart, and my brain will beat
and if you throw my brain into the flames
I will carry you in my blood.

THe Hermaphrodite was a popular motif in the classical world. In the statue shown at the Louvre, the ancient Greek statue is laid on a mattress sculpted by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

Lou Andreas-Salomé was not only Rilke’s lover. She was his inspiration, his editor, his soul-sister, his mother, his therapist, and, finally, she left him– which made his love burn the fiercer. It transcended the erotic and the romantic, until Lou was not his lover, but his be-loved. One cannot help but see Lou there by the unicorn. Or was he, Rilke, the Lady himself?

Rilke had spent the first years of his life as a girl, long-haired, in dresses with frills. As a fashion, this was not entirely uncommon in nineteenth century Prague, where he was born in 1875. But his mother really wanted him to be a girl, an ersatz daughter for a first-born child who had died young. She gave him a traditional girl’s name, René Maria, which Lou Salomé convinced him to change to the more masculine Rainer Maria. Of frail health and feminine physique, Rilke suffered during his years at the strict military school. In a poem dedicated to Lou Salomé he wrote:

A younger brother’s voice

I’m dripping away, I’m dripping away
like sand dripping through fingers
I have at once so many senses
that all are thirsty differently
I feel myself in hundred parts
swell and ache

But most of all right in my heart

I want to die. Leave me alone.
I believe, I will succeed
in being so scared
that my pulses will burst.

As much as he suffered from being the fille manquée to an unloving mother and an absent father, as an adult he struck his contemporaries as feminine and sexually ambiguous. Freud-disciple Lou Salomé diagnosed the hypochondriac with hysteria. In his writing, private and published, Rilke cultivated such profound love for the feminine, for womankind, that W.H. Auden dubbed him the greatest lesbian poet since Sappho. Stefan Zweig, who visited Rilke in Paris, later wrote in The World of Yesterday: Everything masculine caused him physical discomfort. In conversation, he was more at ease with women, and on paper he corresponded with women freely and frequently. He was freer in female company. In his “Letters to a Young poet,” which he sent from Paris to an aspiring (male) writer in Austria, Rilke wrote:

Women, in whom life lingers so much more fertile and faithful, must be the more mature humans – humans more human than man, who, light and superficial for lack of an unborn’s weight, hastily underestimates what he believes to love… one day there will be a woman, whose name will not anymore signify but the opposite to the masculine, but something in itself, something that won’t need completion or limitation, but will mean only life and existence: the female human…

In the run of his life, Rilke had many love affairs, ranging from the madly erotic to the madly platonic. Yet, with the exception of Lou Salomé, to his lovers he remained distant, ungraspable, shrouded in an air of solitude. If his only desire was to love like a woman, he failed in life, but he succeeded on paper.

Rilke came back to the theme of the unicorn at various stages in his life. In addition to his musings in the Notebook of Malte Laurids Brigge, he wrote three more unicorn poems.

Choosing between the Lady and the unicorn, he might have settled for the mirror.

Lady with the Unicorn

Woman and noble: surely we hurt
A woman’s fate that we don’t understand
For you we are the still not mature
for your life, when we brush it,
turns into a unicorn, a shy white creature
that flees – and fears
and dissolves, disappears
and after much sadness you’ll find it
still scared, warm, and out of breath

then you remain apart, far from us
pass your hands through every day’s chores
the things humbly serve you
but you have just one wish fulfilled
that once a unicorn will find its calming face
in your soul’s heavy mirror.

France: Fortified

The Sun King is alarmed. It’s 1692 and an army of 40,000 Savoyens have just crossed the Vars pass into the rugged region of Dauphiné in the South of the kingdom. They have overrun the Alpine city of Briançon, the city closest to the Italian border, and burned down the city’s splendid catholic Cathedral. Undoubtedly an act of revenge, since the city’s only protestant temple had been ravaged and destroyed only a short time before. Now the Savoyens are threatening to join a major protestant uprising in the central region of France, the Cevennes. Fortunately, early snowfalls are stalling the Savoyans’ campaign, affording the self-proclaimed sun king Louis XIV time to catch breath and order his highly acclaimed chief military engineer, the ingenious Vauban, to travel to the Dauphiné and take matters in hand.

Sebastian Pretre de Vaubun will leave a great heritag in Briançon. Fortifications that outlasted 300 years of warfare, sieges and hostilities. Still nowadays, the city relies on the talent of the ingenious engineer.

In the 17th century, the Dauphiné is one of the monarchy’s most impoverished regions. The winters are freezing and snowy, the summers scorching and bad harvests frequent. The mountainous territory doesn’t allow for development of industry, and transportation is strenuous on the meagre network of roads, the stone bridges that gap the steep valleys or turbulent mountain rivers are dilapitated. Its strategic position between the Italian Houses in the East and Savoy in the North has made the Dauphiné a battle ground of various wars within the past hundred years. Still, the province is heavily taxed both by Paris and the Vatican. As the two sovereigns lead a bitter battle over the Dauphiné’s taxation, the people, plagued by hunger, poverty and epidemics like the Plague, revolt frequently.

By the time Vauban arrived in Briançon,the city was still in ruins, yet he was impressed with the industriousness. Already the locals were up and about after the Savoyan attack. Briançon was, so he noted in his diary, an example of courage and perseverance.

Founded by the Romans in an altitude of 1326m at a strategically important intersection of four valleys, Its Roman name, Brigantium, Place in the Height, was in medieval times, when the settlement was turned into a burgus, changed to Briançon, as it was pronouced in the local language, l’occitan.

Surrounded by pine forests that cradled stone mountain peaks, where lavender sweetened the air and golden eagles patrolled the sky, Briançon was a city of great wealth. As so-called Franko-Burgeois, the people of Briançon were granted certain political freedom and economic privileges, the rights usually reserved to nobles: the right to assemble, the right to elect their representatives, or the freedom of trade. Together with other free-spirited cities in the region, Briançon founded their own republic with special rights and obligations: La République des Escartons, with its leaders, called Dauphins, due to the dolphin in the seal or arms, residing in Briancon. Briançon flourished. By 1345, the city counted four different quarters within the city walls, with a communal oven and market halls, with three fountains, a fire tower, a central canal that ran along the Grande Rue, for the snow melt. There were the palaces of Lombardian bankers, administrative buildings and royal residences. When in 1349, in need of money, Dauphin Humbert II sold his holdings to the King of France, things even improved. Various Catholic orders (the Franciscans, the Dominicans, the Ursulines) that settled within its walls and ran schools at their convents, for both boys and girls. Literacy in the population reached for the time incredible 80%. Crafts, arts and trade were booming. Until, of course, Louis XIV ascended the throne and the religious wars broke out.

To finance the enlarged army, the sumptuous court in Versaille, and the growing administration, Louis XIV increased taxation. Since the aristocracy and the nobles, and many bourgeois as well were exempted from paying taxes, it was a burden stemmed the under privileged classes only – like the people of the Dauphiné, from whom the Vatican also claimed their toll.

It was this battle between Louis XIV and Innocent XII over the taxation of the Dauphiné that provoked the attack of the Savoyens and the Calvinistic so called Ligue of Augsburg. To appease the Pope Innocent XII by proving to be an ardent catholic he revoked religious freedom of the Huguenots, the French protestants, which led to violent massacres all over France. The Huguenots emigrated in large numbers to overseas. Others resisted and revolted, others searched for refuge in the less accessible provinces in the outskirts of the empire – like the Dauphine. The tumults between Catholics and Protestants weakened the empire, and the protestant Savoyens attacked.

When Vaubun was sent South, he was already a household name for new and novel techniques of warfare. He had built in the North and West of the French empire his trademark star-shaped fortifications which eliminate blind angels, and were connected by subterranean corridors. His motto of strategic war fare was “More powder, less blood!”, searching to minimize bloodshed and loss of soldiers. An usual approach in a feudal, absolutist empire as was the French monarchy under Louis XIV. A military mastermind, he was of course a rational thinker, a strategist not a passionate hothead, a catholic humanist with a protestant lover.

inside the cathedral

Just as his patron Louis XIV had ordered, Vaubon turned Briançon into a military town. He came up with a system fortifications that connected the surrounding peaks, protecting both the city, and each other. He designed garrisons and also new cathedral. However, he would never see the finalization of his Alpine master work. He died in 1707.

By the end of his life, Vaubun, had turned away from military towards philosophical matters, especially the Enlightenment. He published a treatise, La Dime Royale, in which he advocated for a new fiscal concept of free trade, tax exemptions for the poor and relief programs for those touched by the famines. Not surprisingly, these ideas went down less well with the court.

More than 100 years after his death, Briançon was again under attack. In 1814, after Napoleon had suffered his proverbial Waterloo, the Austrians seized the moment and attacked France. But they were halted at the indestructible doors of Briançon, where, after a three-month siege they were chased away by the Chasseurs Des Alpes, an army of local mercenaries quickly put together for the occasions. They are to this day one of the French Republic’s elite armies.

Briançon was again besieged in 1943 – the Italian fascists also never managed to enter the city. They were chased away not by locals, though, but by an African battalion made up from Moroccan soldiers.

Nowadays, in the 80 years of peace and tranquillity, Briançon still relies on Vauban’s talent. The city was declared “Cité de Vauban” and UNESCO World Heritage in 2008, which turned Briançon in an important tourist destination, and thereby bringing back the wealth and metropolitan flair the city once enjoyed. Granted, many tourists come to ski in the snow rich winters, others to hike and bike in the summer sun when the scent of wild lavender and pine again sweetens the light blue skies. But the old town is bustling – cafés, restaurants are filled with people touring the old fortifications, incredulous how all this was built so long ago into the steep slopes, the rocky gorges, and still stood tall, braving the weather, the frost and the lichens. Stonewalls built in times of bloodshed, hate and destruction are now a shared heritage in a Europe free of borders and wars.

The Alps/Les Hautes Alpes: My Heart Leaps Up

My heart leaps up when I behold
A rainbow in the sky.
So was it when my life began;
So is it now I am a man;
So be it when I grow old,
Or let me die!
The Child is father of the Man;
And I could wish my days to be
Bound each to each by natural piety.

In 1790, the English poet William’s Wordsworth visited the Alps, hiking Swiss mountain passes into Italy, and farther into France. He expressed his awe for the spectacular scenery of the Alps in a collection of poems, yet the beauty of the high mountains, and his veneration of the untamed Alpine Nature can be found in the entirety of his works.

So fair, so sweet, withal so sensitive,
Would that the little Flowers were born to live,
Conscious of half the pleasure which they give;

How clear, how keen, how marvellously bright
The effluence from yon distant mountain’s head,
Which, strewn with snow smooth as the sky can shed,
Shines like another sun–on mortal sight

Praised be the Rivers, from their mountain springs
Shouting to Freedom, “Plant thy banners here!”
To harassed Piety, “Dismiss thy fear,
And in our caverns smooth thy ruffled wings!

More than 200 years later, while the world has changed completely, the Alps are still as untamed and aweinspiring.

PARIS: Grandes Horizontales


Nineteenth-century Paris is famous for its Bohemia and its highly formalized system of prostitution. The demimonde, or half-world, was a world of luxury, hedonism and moral freedom. The term was coined by Alexandre Dumas fils, author of “La Dame aux Camélias,” a novel based on the life of his lover, the courtesan Marie Duplessis, which later inspired Verdi to his opera “La Traviata.”

Courtesans were socially, financially and most importantly sexually talented women, who entertained aristocrats, artists, and writers such as Dumas, Zola or Baudelaire, charging for their services. In post-revolutionary France, it was not considered despicable for a man to use the services of prostitutes. On the contrary, to keep a woman was a status-symbol, the more she paraded her fancy dresses and extravagant jewelry, exhibited her pompous house, the better: She was displaying her benefactor’s financial and sexual powers. Courtesans hence lived lavish life styles, they were socialites and trend setters with daring fashion and hairstyles.

Their opulent creativity and theatrical self-enactment inspired artists and writers. Courtisan Cora Pearl had herself served up on a silver platter, decorated only with parsley, or played cupid in Offenbach’s operetta Orphée aux enfers dressed in nothing but strategically placed diamonds. More restrained Apollonie Sabatier’s hosted a salon for Bohemian intellectuals, frequented by the likes of Charles Baudelaire, whom she inspired to write “Les Fleurs du Mal”, or sculptor Auguste Clésinger, who eternalized her in the throes of orgasm as the “Femme Piquée par un serpent”, at full frontal display at the Musée d’Orsay.

The courtesan at full frontal display at Musee d’Orsay

Called the Grandes Horizontales, courtesans offered conversation, beauty and status, but it was essentially sex they were selling. As were those many less fortunate women, whose sexual talents did not get them into the novels or paintings of the Second Empire.

The Lorettes were poor women, kept by one or more benefactors, who lived around the parish of Notre-Dame-De-La-Lorette. As the stereotype went, prostitutes were devout church-goers, probably to repent for their shameful lifestyle: They were also believed to be lazy and self-indulgent. Lorettes were mostly fallen women:  of a wealthy background but fallen into disgrace, or separated women. While it was easy to fall into the démi-monde, it was impossible to ever get out.

The Grisettes were even less fortunate. They did not have enough benefactors and had to pursue a side job, notoriously as seamstresses. Gris – French for grey – alluded to the cheap fabric of their dull dresses.

Cocottes, also called biches (dogs) or chaumeaux (camels) were considered more substantial, means more expensive, than the Grisettes, yet did not have the flamboyant status of the courtesans.

It was the courtesans privilege to choose her benefactor, which she did by setting her price according to the man’s wealth.

The career of a courtesan was for many – if not all – women the only access to education and an autonomous, independent life. But, unlike their benefactors, they were not respected, not even in the enlightened society of the Second Empire. Despite their allure, courtesans were considered decadent, conspicuous and scandalous. Once their beauty faded, they ended up in misery and poverty.

THey were forever exiled to the Demi-monde.

PARIS: Grotesque

 

When Victor Hugo wrote the Hunchback of Notre-Dame in 1830, he did so with the purpose of reminding his contemporaries of the importance of preserving Gothic Architecture.


 

“Notre-Dame de Paris”, the Gothic cathedral on the Ile de la Cité in Paris, was the novel’s real main protagonist. After the French Revolution of 1791 much of the cathedral’s religious imagery was damaged or destroyed.

 
Built around 1200, the cathedral featured on its façade a myriad of grotesques, of chimeas and gargouilles: monsters, creatures of hellish phantasies that, not unlike a comic strip, served to educate the illiterate population, illustrate the creatures of the Bible and of folkloristic lore, and instill fear of God and the Devil.

 
“The book will kill the building!” The arrival of the printing press and the aera of Enlightment however rendered the grotesques superfluous. Writers, Hugo complained, drove architects into oblivion. He believed that buildings were like books, recordings of history – until the arrival of the printing press. The foremost ideas of every generation would no longer be written on the same material. The stone book, so solid and lasting, would give way to the paper book.


 

Ironically, his novel, thanks to the printing press, became a bestseller. Doubly ironically, its popularity led to a revival of Gothic architecture. Renovations at Notre-Dame were undertaken, to which the cathedral’s current appearance is owed.

PARIS: La Petite Mort at Père Lachaise


Victor Noir was a hero. A journalist writing for “Le Marsaillaise”, a newspaper critical of the reign of Napoleon III, he dueled with “Le Prince Imperial” Bonaparte. The prince, loyal to Napoleon III, had insulted the journalists of another magazine, with whom young Victor, only 22, felt solidary.

At 14:00 on January 10th 1870, a single shot was fired.

Victor Noir collapsed, dead.

History avenged Victor. While Le Prince Imperial Bonaparte perished seven years later in the Zulu wars in far-away South Africa, Victor’s burial at the Père Lachaise cemetery was attended by 100,000 people. His tombstone, sculpted by master Jules Dalou, is a bronze replica of Victor’s dead body as it lies stretched out peacefully: his high hat next to him, a pink dahlia in his hand, his crotch bulging in the manner of a true hero.

Victor Noir quickly turned into a sex symbol, a posthumous Casanova. Women who kiss his bronze lips, or rub his crotch, nose or feet will have their sex life spiced up, or so the lore goes. And it shows – in the past 140 years, his bronze crotch, nose and feet have been polished shiny – to the extent that in 2004 his grave was fenced off to prevent further damage. One is left to wonder: is the sex-life of Parisians so depressing that they have to take to rubbing or even straddling a bronze statue, or is it extra exciting because they are doing exactly that?

The fence has been taken down in the meantime – supposedly following protests of the female half of the population of Paris. Nothing should stand in the way to a blissful sex life!

“What if all this is not true, but every time someone rubs his crotch, Victor has an orgasm?” K says to me as we pay our respect at his grave.

“Then he went to heaven.” I say, rubbing his crotch, just to be on the safe side.

Victor, the grand hero, has died La Petite Mort.

La Petite Mort, the little death, was a term used to describe the brief state of loss of consciousness before the word orgasm was invented. There is however another bronze sculpture at the cemetery of Père Lachaise, which eternalizes the passed-away not in a state of peaceful sleep, but in this moment between joy and pain, where feelings are so intense that time is suspended: eternity.

The cemetery of Père Lachaise was opened on 21 May 1804 under Napoleon I and under the premise that “every citizen has the right to be buried regardless of race or religion”. And so, in this vast cemetery, where the graves of so many celebrities are found, there are little innocent angels next to Victor Noir, and fallen soldiers, and grieving virgins and mothers, and even a chair.

There is a heaven for all of us.