Zimbabwe: Sundown

Finally, the rains have started to fall. Too little, and too late. Already the stench of death lingers. The sad remains of impalas and baboons lie scattered on the parched earth. Weakened by the heat, they were easy prey to the lions, wild dogs and hyenas. The arid soil is cracked open by the biting sun. For weeks on end, a cruel heatwave kept temperatures soaring to 45 degrees without respite.

Vultures perch on dead trees. The carcasses of elephants and buffaloes, so seemingly unconquerable creatures, line the muddy pools. Pools that once were a reliable source of fresh water and gave their name to Mana Pools Nationalpark in the North of Zimbabwe, Mana meaning four in the local Shona language. But now, with an unprecedented heatwave and draught, these once life-giving pools have turned into sticky death traps for the heavy giants. Life is but a fierce struggle for survival in Zimbabwe.

Last year’s rainy season was short and ineffective. The dams didn’t fill, and even the once majestic Victoria Falls have dried out, leaving the country in desperate need for electricity: The mighty Zambezi- river is at a record low and Kariba Dam, essential for the national electricity supply, fails to produce, leaving those who can’t afford private generators of solar power literally in the dark.

Children suffer from the drought and food shortage the most.

Hunger is a frequent visitor in the history of Zimbabwe – a country used to deal with famines and droughts in the rural areas. But the worst drought in the four decades of Zimbabwe’s existence, cyclone-induced floods and an economic collapse have left Zimbabwe on the verge of its worst-ever famine. Zimbabwe will run out of maize, its staple food, by January.

A marabou stork looks at the almost dried out Long Pool, of Mana Pools National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The current climate crisis has acerbated the problem, as have “poverty and high unemployment, widespread corruption, severe price instabilities and the lack of purchasing power,” said Hilal Elver, the UN special rapporteur on the right of food, in an interview with the Guardian. According to the UN report, about 5.5 million rural Zimbabweans and a further 2.2 million in urban centres face food insecurity. The country is now on the brink of starvation.

A white-backed vulture claims a buffalo’s carcass.

As Zimbabwe, once dubbed Africa’s bread basket, has now agreed to buy maize from neighbouring South Africa, so have the national parks ditched their policy of non-intervention and started feeding animals. Over 7000 bales of hay have been delivered to Mana Pools, and water is bumped up from bore holes.

A dying elephant in Mana Pools National Park. Zimbabwe hosts 80,000 elephants, a major part of the world’s elephant population.

Together with South Africa, Botswana and Namibia, Zimbabwe unsuccessfully lobbied the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species for controlled sales of their ivory stocks at a meeting in August. Trade in ivory is banned to deter poaching. Zimparks, who run Mana Pools among others, and  who receive no government funding, says its ivory stockpile is worth $300 million. Money it can use for wildlife conservation.

Elephant calves are now being exported to China: to save them from the drought and ease the situation in the Zimbabwean parks, as well as garner an income for Zimparks. These baby elephants end up in circuses in China, the land of the rising sun. They are just another victim of the global climate crisis.

Sarajevo, Mon Amour

Yesterday, the star-studded 25th edition of the Sarajevo Film Festival ended and with it a week of joyful partying for the entire city. And what a party it was! While director Alejandro González Iñárritu, actors Isabelle Huppert or Gael Garcia Bernal, to name just a few, strutted down the red carpet in front of the National Theatre, local youth volunteered as ushers, and the rest of the town joined international movie-goers not only in the movietheatres, but at parties and clubbings that boosted Balkan popmusic through the city center until the wee hours.

The Heart of Sarajevo at the Bazar in the Ottoman quarter of town

The “Heart of Sarajevo”, the festival’s logo, a delicate heart shape designed by French fashion designer Agnès B., could be found at every street corner: dangling from the street lights in the elegant Habsburgian part of the town, from the shops at the bazar in the Ottoman part of the town, and even illuminated at the bus stops in the concrete jungle of the realsocialist Tito era.

street café packed during the Festival

Little reminded of the beginnings of the Sarajevo Film Festival 25 years ago: Admission to any one of the 37 films shown from October 25 to November 5 1995 was one cigarette. Portable generators provided power to the projectors. Directors Alfonso Cuaron and Leos Carax made their way over the surrounding mountains in armored cars. Film canisters were lugged through a tunnel dug beneath the airport. Sarajevo was under siege.

Sarajevo, hitherto a symbol of religious tolerance and joie de vivre, was besieged by the Serbian army for four years, from 1992 till December 1995. Snipers zooming in on city dwellers while asleep in their beds, while preparing dinner in their kitchens; shrapnel killing children on the playground or on their way to school; land mines blowing up men, women searching for fire wood, in need of food or medication. The Balkan War, an ethnic conflict which led to the Bosnian genocide and the break-up of the Yugoslav Republic, resulted in the death of at least 130,000 people.

Crossing from the Ottoman quarter to the Habsburgian part of town.

The Sarajevo festival was launched in 1995 as an act of defiance, Mirsad Purivatra, the festival’s founder remembered in an interview with “The Wrap” on the occasion of the festival’s 20th anniversary in 2014:

Sarajevsko Beer at the Sarajevsko Brewery. During the siege, the brewery was the only source of fresh water in the city. The people queued up with plastic canisters, risking their lives. The Serbian army had snipers set up on the mountain tops surrounding the city.

“For the first six months of the war, to survive physically was the main goal,” he said. “After six months, we started to think about how to survive mentally, and film was the way. During the war, there was no communication. You never knew who left the city, who stayed, who was killed. Coming together to see movies became the main cultural event in Sarajevo.”

Diary entry from during the Siege, at a War Exhibition in Sarajevo

The first screenings where held at a basement, then relocated to a Jewish Synagogue. 15,000 people – an utterly unexpected and overwhelming number – showed up to watch the films in war torn Sarajevo. The second festival, in 1996, ended on the same day the Dayton Agreement ended the Balkan War, and Purivatra started thinking about turning the screenings into a real festival. The rest is history.

Mountainous Sarajevo

The Sarajevo festival grew into the most prominent film festival of South-East Europe, attracting more than 100,000 people annually on all programs and screening hundreds of films from 60 countries. This year, the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences has awarded the Sarajevo Film Festival the status of the Academy Award qualifying film festival in the Short Film category.

The Sarajevo Rose at the markethall in central Sarajevo. The Serbian Army bombarded the so called Markale twice, in 1994 and 1995, killing 111 and wounding 219 people queuing up to buy groceries.

The scars of war are still visible in the city. The “Sarajevo roses” indicate where bombs killed more than three people in the streets; facades still pock marked with bullet holes; buildings damaged and never rebuilt; and of course the memories of the people of Sarajevo.

at Ferhadija Mosque in Sarajevo

But the scars are fading. And with the festival the spirits are rising and at least for ten days a year Sarajevo becomes once again the symbol of tolerance and joie de vivre it has always been.

One of the winning films of the 2019 Festival. The festival focuses on the South-Eastern Europe, this film of Georgia tells the story of a gay love in a patriarchal society

The Lion King

25 years after “The Lion King” hit theatres as one of the world’s most successful films, Disney will release its remake on July 19th. While the 1994 original won multiple awards for its creative animation work, the 2019 remake relied on photorealistic CGI technique – computer generated Images – a technique so realisitically precise, it could fool the movie goers into believing they’re watching an Attenborough documentary, if it weren’t for the unrealistic plot.

That and its anthropomorphism will surely turn the remake into an even bigger success at the box offices. For lions have fascinated humans as long as they remember.

A lion king in the Okavango Delta. It is said that Botswana owns the strongest anti-poaching units. They shoot first, then ask questions.

Spotting a lion, or a lioness, in the wild is a both intimidating as awe inspiring experience: the demeanor of a queen, a king, the innate grace that stems both from superior in strength as well as the unconditional solidarity to the pride. No wonder humans have idolized them.

The oldest known object of figurative art is in fact a figurine of a human’s body with a lioness’s head. The so called Löwenmensch, German for Lion Human, was carved out of mammoth tusk about 40,000 years ago. Discovered in Germany in 1939, only a couple of days before the outbreak of WWII, the Löwenmensch is proof of the presence of lions all over Europe.

In ancient Rome, gladiators had to fight Barbery Lions, lions from the land of the Berbers in Northern Africa. They were in fact damnatii at bestias – condemned to Death, their prosecution entertainment for the lower class.

Neither cave lions, which roamed central Europe in prehistoric times, nor the smaller South European Lion, Panthera Leo which the Romans still enountered when they ruled the continent, had humans on their menu – unless of course they were made sparring partners to unlucky gladiators at the colosseum. Rather, lions and humans have always been competitors on the hunt.

A competition, humans won. The Panthera Leo Europea has long gone extinct. And for the African Lion, the Panthera Leo Leo, the outlook is just as bad.

The Selous Game Reserve offers sufficient space and prey to apex predators

25 years since Disney’s “The Lion King” ran as one of the highest grossing films of all times, lions have halved in number to less than 25.000 – there are fewer lions than rhinos worldwide. Only six countries are home to more than 1000 lions respectively. All of them are in Southern or Eastern Africa, most notably Tanzania, which with its Selous Game Reserve and Ruaha National Park – still offers sufficient space and prey for large predators to thrive.

A young male in the Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania

Lions have suffered a dramatic loss of habitat through fragmentation due to agriculture and livestock replacing their natural prey, fueling the conflict between carnivores – humans and lions in this case. Many lions are simply killed in retaliation, or because they are perceived a threat to human livelihood. Poaching, badly managed trophy hunting and bush meat hunting – due to poverty in rural Africa – have done the rest to put lions on the list of endangered species.

A lion cub in the Selous Game Reserve in Southern Tanzania. It’s future is unsure.

25 years after Disney’s “The Lion King” hit the theatres as one of the best selling shows ever, the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, put lions on the list of endangered species.

But real, wild lions however are important in this world and to individual countries. As apex predators they keep ecosystems in balance, they increase the touristic attractiveness as a country for ecotourism. But most importantly, they have as any other living being on this planet has an unconditional right to live.

A lioness also in the Selous Game Reserve in Southern Tanzania

25 years since the first Lion King, the Walt Disney Corporation has asked fans to donate to their Lion Recovery Fund, as well as donating $1.58 million to various lion protection projects since August 2018 themselves. A number dwarfed the $814.7 million adjusted life time grossing of the first Lion King.

A bachelor in the Okavango Delta, Botswana. This young male was actually wearing a colar. Scientific research is fundamental in saving the lion population by tracking their ways and preventing conflict between the big cats and local cattle farmers.

Here are some links of lion conservation projects for you to donate:  

The Ruaha Carnivore Conservation Fund:

Austria: La Ronde

It’s this time of the year again: The bee-eaters, those agile, gregarious birds, have returned from South Africa and set up shop at Lake Neusiedl. By means of their sharp bills they dig their burrows up to two meters into the vertical sand stone, completely ignoring the burrows they had carved out the previous year. It’s in their nature to build a new home each June.

It’s not in their nature to find new partner, though. Bee-eaters mate for life. Their romantic fidelity has inspired poets and biologists alike. Albeit, their sex lives aren’t as straight forward as it may seem. Both husband and wife like to engage in extra-marital affairs to further their own offspring’s chances of survival, turning the colony into a stage for a veritable Ronde à la Schnitzler.

Courtship follows an elaborate protocol. The groom presents the bride with a present – a bee or a dragonfly or even a butterfly, the avian equivalent to a bouquet of roses. After a little cuddling, the female will assume a receptive posture, after which the consummation of marriage will take place. Then both will joyfully take to the skies. Love is in the air!

However, monogamy is often limited to “social monogamy” – the shared raising of the hatchlings. Copulation often happens in the hidden, sometimes it’s forced, and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all.

A couple usually enlists other birds as babysitters, most preferably their own children. If the latter however wish to start their own family, the old couple will go to extraordinary lengths to prevent them from mating. The daughter in turn will sneak out in the wee hours of the day to find herself a secret lover.

In general, as recent studies have shown, a lot of extra-marital sex in the world of birds is in fact instigated by females. Married males will not shy away from a little tete-a-tete, especially if they don’t have to take care of the hatchlings later. On a darker note: bachelors who haven’t managed to impress a female will resort to drastic measures to get their DNA spread: coercion and rape.

Comes September, the bee eaters will head South again. Many more of them.

The Austrian doctor and novelist Arthur Schnitzler published his novel “La Ronde” (Der Reigen) in 1879, causing a scandal for its frank description of sexuality. Or rather: it caused a riot. Not surprisingly, the book was banned. Then became a best seller. The Fifty Shades of Grey of its time. Passion is more colorful at Lake Neusiedl.

Vienna: Scarred Faces

Vienna has many faces. One very beautiful. The city, peacefully slow yet vibrantly social-democratic, has scored the top ranking as the world’s most livable city for the past ten years (Mercer Quality of Living City Ranking). One very ugly: Stained and scarred by history: fascism, the holocaust and the loss of the city’s Jewish community.

Vienna counts almost two million faces – plus 90. Italian-German photographer Luigi Toscano has mounted 90 larger than life current portraits of holocaust survivors at Vienna’s picturesque main boulevard, the Ringstraße, an avenue that features the architectural splendor of the old city. The collection of photos, printed on water repellent, slightly transparent canvas, has toured 70 countries to commemorate the past: Lest we Forget! in times of resurgent totalitarianism, xenophobia and right wing extremism worldwide.

But it was only in Vienna that the photos – touching close-ups of aged, wrinkled faces, eyes that 80 years after the fact still reflect the horrors of the Nazi concentration camps, the sadness of the being orphaned and unrooted, and even the optimism and love of reconciliation – were vandalized: defaced and slashed with swastikas.

Toscano’s outdoors exhibition, free and accessible to anyone, has arrived in Vienna in the midst of a political scandal. Until last week, Austria was governed by a coalition between the neo-liberals and the right wing party . The former, whose young chairman Sebastian Kurz eerily resembles the young Emperor Franz Joseph II, husband of Sissy and erector of the Ringstrasse, mastered marketing and political staging to the perfection, hence becoming strongest force in Austria. The latter not so: A video surfaced depicting the right wing leaders drugged and in the act of instigating corruption. A week and a parliamentary motion of no-confidence later, the coalition was history. The act of vandalism, it is suspected, was an act of frustration, hate and antisemitism, which the government had encouraged.

The destruction of the portraits came as a shock to everyone. Another shameful mark in the history of Vienna. But it’s from the dark that the sun rises. Viennese spontaneously got together at Ringstraße, brought needles and threads and sewed the torn portraits back together. Vigils are held to protect the photos 24/7, flowers laid, candles lit. Vienna has learned from its history, it seems.

Who are these faces who stand the rain, the wind and the cold to keep watch? It’s the young Catholics. It’s the Boy scouts. It’s the Young Muslims, who sit feasting through their days of Ramadan and for whom the Chief Rabbi brings food each night. What love, what solidarity!

The portraits now are as scarred as the city. But what is a scar? It’s something that mends together which hate, violence, fear and terror has ripped apart. A scar is a symbol of growth. Of: love conquers everything.

Vienna has many faces. Scarred faces, beautiful faces.

Vienna: Mother Figures

In 1908, during archeological excavations close to the sleepy village of Willendorf, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a tiny limestone figure depicting a voluptuous woman was found. The archeologists immediately recognized the value of the find, put it in a wooden box and delivered it personally at the imperial-royal Museum of Natural History in Vienna. The figurine became an archeological, historical and art sensation: the later dubbed “Venus Of Willendorf” turned out to be some incredible 29,500 years old. Hopes were high that the figurine would shed light on Stone Age and the beginning of human society. Yet, more than hundred years later the little woman remains a mystery. In her silence however she tells us more about us – and human nature.

The origins of the Venus remain unknown. The limestone she is carved out is not local, and the ochre she supposedly was painted with has long faded. She has no face, but an elaborate hairdo of seven concentric circles. She measures 11,5cm from the tip of her head to her ankles. The little woman has no feet, and never had. What she has instead is big buttocks, burly breasts, a billowing belly, and a prominent cleft between her thighs. She is without doubt a symbol of fertility. Fitting snugly in one hand, she was maybe a lucky charm, meant to be carried around.

But then again, if she was of a nomadic tribe, part of a group of hunters and gatherers, why was she obese, her arms thin and unfit to pick berries or dig for roots, and no feet to run from or after big animals? And if she was a token of procreation, why was she an older woman, instead of a young one at the pinnacle of fertility?

The terror birds roamed Earth in the Stone Age. This one roams the Museum of Natural History, Vienna, now residence of the Venus of Willendorf.

The Venus of Willendorf most likely was no lucky charm, but a totem of womanhood, the epitome of femininity, the antithetical man. Some researchers suspect the figure to be the self portrait of a female artist – her exaggerated proportions the foreshortening effect of self-inspection, her facelessness the result of the lack of mirrors. Others argue that the figurine does not depict a human woman at all, but a deity, a kind of Mother Earth. The Venus is maybe another proof that early societies were in fact matriarchies.

Whatever the truth behind the little figurine, the Willendorf woman was not the only, nor the oldest figurine found in the region in the 20th century. But she was and still is the most prominent. Something about her seems to resonate with (not only) Austrian culture. She is among the most popular archeological objects in the world – and definitely the prime attraction of the Museum Of National History in Vienna.

Museum of Natural History as seen from the twin Museum, the Museum of Art History. Both Museums were built in the style of Viennese Historism.

The Natural History Museum in Vienna dates back to 1750, when emperor Franz Stephan purchased the then largest collection of natural history objects from Chevalier de Baillou in Florence. This collection, assembled by noblemen and royals, comprised 30,000 fossils, snails, mussels, minerals and precious stones and made its way from Italy over the Alps by means of a mule caravan. The emperor was quite taken with his purchase. He visited the collection every day and furthermore financed expeditions around the world to ship home even more rare specimen of live animals, plants and stones.

Emperor Franz Stephan had enough time to indulge in his passion. It was up to his wife, Maria Theresia of Austria, to run the empire – and the family. The couple had sixteen children. Yet, it was exactly her being a supermom that turned her into a successful leader and business women. Despite her being a strict, authoritarian leader inspired by catholic fundamentalism, to the people of the empire she appeared gentle and big-hearted. Despite never having been crowned emporess, that’s what the people called her. Emporess Maria Theresia. She was their mother, a mother to nine nations. A mother of 50 million.

Another Mother Figure: Maria Theresa was mother to 16 and the rest of the monarchy.

Maria Theresia herself had no interest in natural history, but she recognized the importance of her husband’s collection when it came to mineralogy and the importance it possibly held for mining and exploiting raw materials from the soil. When Franz Stephan died, she donated the collection to the public. She hired a curator to create a museum (open by individual admission only, mind you) at her Imperial palace.

In the following 100 years, the collection kept growing and finally, under her great-great-grandson Emperor Franz Josef I, a new building had to be erected. The new Museum of Natural History, opened in 1889, is situated at Vienna’s pompous Ringstraße, facing its almost identical twin, the Museum of Fine Arts. In between the two imposing buildings, Maria Theresa sits enthroned as a bronze statue. A mere twenty years after the opening of the two museums, by 1918, the monarchy was history itself, but the two museums and Maria Theresia are still standing tall. As is the Venus of Willendorf.

Sunset in Vienna. Maria Theresia and a general in bronze, the museum of natural history in the background

After 29,500 years hidden in the soil, the Venus of Willendorf was condemned to her little wood box until 1989, when she was finally presented to the public. She now resides in her own little chamber on the second floor of the Museum, from where, through the windows, the visitor also has a good view of Maria Theresia, Emporess.

Hungary: Shake Your Tail Feather

During the first two weeks of April, a fascinating spectacle takes place in the vast planes of the Hungarian Puszta. The Great Bustards are all hopped up and ready to rock and roll. It’s mating season and the males go to dramatic lengths to please the ladies.

A Great Bustard getting ready for display. The Puszta is his lek.

Native to most of Europe, Great Bustards are extremely shy birds, evading human contact by all means since in the run of the past two centuries they have been hunted to the edge of extinction. It’s only due to elaborate conservation efforts that resettle bustards from custody into the wild that the big birds are making a comeback.

No wonder Great Bustards were on the menu before. Males can weigh up to 15 kilos. With a wingspan of up to two meters they’re the world’s largest and heaviest flying bird. Females however are only half a male’s size, and in general, males and females have little to do with each other. Females live separated and raise the youngsters completely on their own. Males live in bachelor groups where they have little else to do but work on their courtship routines. It’s only once a year that they get to meet the ladies and put up their show on the lek – which is the ornithological term for the area where male birds display.

Full display

For his display, the male Breat Bustard puffs up his throat poach, which turns his long whiskers up vertically. He draws back his head and neck and turns his tail forward, thereby lowering his wings and erecting his shorter feathers. In this position he looks… stunning. Certainly getting the ladies’ attention. But to be chosen by his critical audience, he needs to do more. Let the dance begin!

One April morning in the Puszta, the Great Burstards get together for the courtship ritual.

Taking turns among the other bachelors, the Bustard gigolo bobs and bounces, literally shaking his tail feathers. Will the elegance and fluidity of his moves, his posing and his attitude charm the females? It’s the Ladies who decide who gets to procreate.

But there seems to be more to the story than good looks and hot moves. By displaying their behinds, males also present their cloaca to the females, a kind of multifunctional hole which also functions as au lieu of a penis. (Yes, bird sex is nothing more than a cloacal kiss in most bird species). So the cloaca’s state is indeed of interest to the females and they appear to inspect it closely.

Two males roughly the same size. Display is also a means of establishing hierarchy in the bachelor group. The displaying bird’s feathers are clipped. He is part of a conservation project

To get their cloaca presentable, male Great Bustards feed on a diet of blister beetles, which are in fact toxic to most animals. Female Great Bustards have not been observed to feed on blister beetles, but males seem to prefer them over any other. It’s a risky habit, but by precise dosage, the beetle toxin will only kill off bacteria in the male’s digestive tract without harming the bird itself. Beauty knows no pain, and a lek is a Great Bustard’s world.


Botswana: Smoke on the Water

Some 50,000 years ago an earthquake caused the Okavango River to crack up and spill into the Kalahari Desert, creating one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa: the Okavango Delta. Situated in present day Northern Botswana, the largest inland delta in the world stretches over 18,000 km2, a lush oasis offering a variety of habitats to an unequaled fauna and flora. Massive populations of elephants roam the savannas. More than 400 bird species nest in the mopani forests and at the clear waters teeming with hippos, crocodiles and lilies. In the open grasslands, some of the last remaining prides of wild dogs compete with lions, hyenas and leopards over plenty of lechwe and impala.

Hippos in the Delta

The cycle of life and death is not limited to the animal world. The Delta itself undergoes constant change. There is little rain and what falls during the summer quickly evaporates in the merciless heat. Exclusively watered through the Okavango river as there is little rain, seasonal floods and varying water levels wash away and recreate islands on a regular basis. Bush fires burn old and dry plants; they destruct, but simultaneously offer new growth and fertilization of the soil, hence ensuring constant rejuvenation.

High papyrus

Bushfires are a spectacular display of nature’s power. The billowing smoke clouds color the afternoon skies flaming orange and turn the sun into a fierce red ball of fire. The dry papyrus reeds, so typical of the Delta, pose an extra-ordinary risk. Papyrus ignites quickly and its roots smolder underground, enabling the fire to travel long distances, jumping rivers and firebreaks.

Smoke turns the sky violet and the sun into a fierce ball of fire

As essential as they are, fires cause great damage to the Delta and threaten the slow and smaller among the animals, those who lack the ability to migrate long distance, or leap through the fires and over the waterways.

Mostly occurring during the dry season, June to August, when water levels in the Delta are highest, bush fires are easily sparked off by a lightning in the dry grass, and fueled by winds or storms. Recently however, they are often deliberately set: by farmers clearing vegetation for agriculture or fishing, by lodge owners even to move game towards their lodge, or simply as a result of careless behavior in the dry bush.

A lone elephant crossing open grassland under wades of smoke.

Uncontrolled fires burn over 30% of the Okavango annually. At the moment, a fire is raging in the Delta since February 22, purportedly man-made.

The current bushfire on March 9th

for updates please check:

https://earthdata.nasa.gov/fires-and-smoke-in-the-okavango-delta-botswana

Lesotho: Drained

High up in the Drakensberg riff sits the mountain kingdom of Lesotho. It is home to Africa’s highest mountain, the Ntlenyana at 3482m, and some of the continent’s highest waterfalls. The small republic is completely surrounded by the state of South Africa, for which it has always held a special attraction. Lesotho has something in abundance its single next door neighbor desperately wants: water.

A Sotho boy in typical outfit. Photo by Karen Smit

Upon visiting the mountainous land one is touched by its picturesque scenery and the traditional life style of the Basotho people (Lesotho means: land of those who speak Sotho). Climbing the steep slopes in rubber-boots or high up a horse – they are expert riders – clad in their traditional and super warm blankets, they appear taciturn, withdrawn like so many mountain peoples. But most striking to the visitor is the fact that tap water is unsafe in this country. It’s sad but true: 25% of the population have no access to clean drinking water.

Lesotho has known a troubled past. While independence from the British came peacefully in 1966, the small and bitterly poor republic has since been depending on South Africa – for obvious geographic reasons. The big neighbor has always dominated the region economically, but also has never shied away from armed interventions when it came to securing to economic advantages, like: access to the fresh water of Lesotho.

In 1986, South Africa and Lesotho under its South Africa-backed leader Major General Lekhaya (who came to power by a means of a coup d’etat, which many believe was sponsored by South Africa) signed the Lesotho Highlands Water Treaty. Lesotho – would supply Johannesburg and Pretoria, and the whole of Gauteng, South Africa’s arid heartland, with fresh drinking water. For water, it was was believed, Lesotho would always have plenty.

Financed by South Africa, the now functioning Lesotho Highlands Water Project (LHWP) consists of a series of dams – most importantly the Katse dam in central Lesotho –  that trap water in deep mountain valleys, as well as canals and tunnels that transport water North to South Africa. This way, Lesotho makes US$45 million each year: a significant amount in one of the world’s poorest countries. So much, that the LHWP has in fact become a symbol economic integration, of national identity and pride.

But the project came at a high cost. Dams flooded the land, turning fields into water wastelands, drowning trees, leaving the local farmers struggling. Instead, profits went towards a small numbered elite in Lesotho’s modern capital, Maseru. South Africa has always protected their “Water Castle”, as they came to call Lesotho. A notorious incident occurred in 1998, when after political unrest in Maseru, a South African military intervention left 13 Lesotho soldiers dead at the Katse dam.

Rain in the mountains

Things got worse for the Lesotho farmers when the effects of climate change hit the country. Increasingly unstable weather conditions and frequent droughts, most importantly the severe drought 2014 to 2016, took a terrible toll on the Basotho. The country went dry.

A Sotho woman preparing thatching for the traditional huts

There are no irrigation systems in Lesotho. Crops failed. Cattle had no grass to graze. With the drought came poverty – almost a million of Basotho were left in need of emergency food programs – and the fierce fight for survival. The number of school drop-outs soared, as did HIV rates, especially among adolescent girls, who increasingly relied on prostitution to support themselves. With lack of sufficient sanitation services the risk for diarrhea increased, threatening most of all young children. Still, the Basotho had to watch their waters flow towards South Africa.

The mighty Matsunyane falls – a tourist attraction. Lesotho also attracts skiers in winter and adventurous drivers on its steep mountain passes. Yet, tourism is not strong enough to support the country – yet!

Lesotho is not only a victim of climate change. Lesotho is an example of what happens when a country turns water into a commodity.

One doesn’t know the worth of water, until the well runs dry.

Austria: Chronicle Of A Death Foretold

As of today it’s official: The Austrian Roller is extinct. According to the Journal of Zoological Systematics and Evolutionary Research, there are no breeding couples of European Rollers in areas they thrived in only a few decades ago. The death of a species doesn’t come unannounced. For years, NGOs and even the EU have warned of the imminent loss of the strikingly beautiful bird. In vain.

Coracias garrullus was a gregarious bird, as its name suggest, and flamboyantly colored, its turquoise feathers glittering like emeralds. Together with its close relatives, the bee-eater and the kingfisher, it was one of the few birds that brightened up the otherwise monochrome Austrian bird world. The vibrant group’s evolution can be traced back to the Eocene, some fifty million years ago. Yet it took only thirty years to wipe them from their traditional breeding grounds in Eastern Austria.

A European Roller

European Rollers are loyal to their homes. They return from their South African wintering grounds with unbelievable exactitude – a field, a bush, or a tree the monogamous bird and their mating partner will defend as their territory. If they come back, that is, for this year only non-breeders made their way home.

Fallow grassland in Hungary, where rollers still are abundant.

The bird’s patriotism has not been reciprocated by Austria. Intensive agriculture has eaten away their habitat – there are hardly any shrubs left, bushes or fallow grasslands the rollers need as hunting grounds. Dramatic drop in insect population due to wide spread use of pesticides and the fierce weather condition of the past five to ten years has further reduced chances of survival for the young. Finally, add illegal bird hunting in the Mediterranean – their migration route – to the equation. Life was in deed tough on Rollers.

A lonely kingfisher – the last one of its kind in Vienna…

Despite their challenges, Austrian Rollers stayed picky when it came to mating. They didn’t mingle. DNA research suggests that Austrians never even interbred with their next cousins in neighboring Hungary. But as Austrians they should have known better. The history of Austria and Habsburg Empire has proved: incest leads to decreased adaptability and ultimately extinction. The Austrian royal family practically eliminated themselves by means of genetic deficiency.

Sadly, the current Austrian government not only denies a nation’s need for diversity, but climate change as a whole. European Rollers won’t be the last species we will loose.

To be fair, it is not only in Austria that European Rollers have gone extinct. The birds no longer breed in Scandinavia, Russia and Germany. While their numbers are declining in North Eastern Europe, in Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria they are still very common, in countries like Italy or France even increasing – due to conservation efforts like the installation of nest boxes or collaborative programs with farmers.

In Eastern Austria. Rollers and farmers aren’t nemesis. The former actually needs the latter as farmers dig up the beetles for them. It’s industrialized agriculture and the use of pesticides that’s the problem.

In 2015, Birdlife Austria issued a statement demanding immediate action. Rollers, as well as the buntings and shrikes, are under imminent threat of extinction. The NGO pointed towards € 40million that were provided by the EU for Austrian conservation programs but were never put to action. No single politician found the strength to stand up against agricultural lobbies in Austria. The reasons for this lack of political will or courage lie in the conservative make up of Austrian society. Agriculture symbolizes traditional values that, especially in the rural communities, still go unchallenged in Austria.

The red-backed shrike, once common, is also near extinct in Austria.

In 2013, the Albertina, one of Vienna’s most prestigious museums, lent Albrecht Dürer’s highly acclaimed water color Wing of A European Roller to the National Gallery of Art, Washington. It is one of the major nature studies in Art History.

In 2012, Birdlife International called for political action as there are only six breeding pairs of Rollers in Austria left.

In 2010, because the bird was so beautiful and oh so rare – only breeding in one little community in Burgenland, Eastern Austria – the Republic issued a stamp celebrating the bird.

In 2008, the European Union issued the Species Action Plan with the goal to restore the European population of rollers to a favorable conservation status.

In 2005, Birdlife international changed the status of European Rollers from LC – least concern – to NT: near threatened.

In 1520, Albrecht Dürer painted the Wing Of A European Roller. The bird is abundant in Europe and the painter mesmerized by its beauty.

Epilogue:

Please visit the Albertina in 2019, when from September on, the Wing Of A European Roller will be back to Vienna and on display in a special exhibition about Albrecht Dürer’s nature studies. Can’t say Austria doesn’t value its treasures. It practically excels in the art of preservation.

https://www.albertina.at/ausstellungen/albrecht-duerer/

Epilogue 2:

The reason why the wanderwarbler is quite enraged by the extinction of the roller is not only but also that contrary to what the name suggests, the bird in the logo is actually a European Roller.